This is a memoir by a New Yorker staff writer about his lifelong passion for surfing, from his boyhood in Hawaii to his recent years off the coast of Long Island. I know nothing about surfing, but this book, and its incredible prose, gave me a completely new understanding and appreciation. I read this book at the beach, which was absolutely perfect. Finnegan’s writing is elegant and rhythmic and it was a joy to explore his life of adventure and travel. I was most impressed by his ability to recapture the spirit of adventure and restlessness that propelled him across the South Pacific during his early twenties. Such freedom! This is a book about youth, single-mindedness, and risk-taking, gradually giving way to adulthood and rootedness.
Availability: COSMOS, USMAI
Review Submitted by: Michael Dunn
Rating: Highly Recommended